RV Battery Care and Maintenance

Batteries are an important part of your motorhome.

They provide power to operate the motorhome’s accessories as well as allowing it to drive down the road. Yet, batteries are a common source of frustration when they aren’t performing as they should and can quickly turn your dream trip into a nightmare. Batteries have a tough existence, but knowing how to care for them will ensure that you will get the most out of your batteries in both performance and longevity.

In addition to 120 VAC electrical systems, which are powered by shore power or a generator, your coach has two separate 12 volt battery systems. One system is similar to what your car or truck has. It’s a single battery that is used to start your engine and provide 12 volt power to operate windshield wipers, lights and a few automotive accessories. This battery is recharged by the engine’s alternator. The second system is a multi-battery configuration that powers the coach systems, such as interior lighting, fans, water pumps, slideouts, etc. Smaller motorhomes may have only two batteries while larger diesel pushers may have as many as eight batteries. In addition, batteries may also be used to power an inverter that produces 120 VAC power to run high voltage electrical components when there is no shore power or generator operating.

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A bank of six 6-volt deep cycle batteries

How do RV batteries work?

Batteries don’t “make” electricity. They store it and make it available on demand. But once the juice is gone, it will need to be refilled, much like your vehicle’s fuel tank. The chassis battery is recharged by the engine’s alternator while driving. The house batteries that power your coach’s accessories can be charged by a converter or inverter/charger when you are plugged into shore power or when operating the generator. They can also be charged from the vehicle’s alternator when driving. Normally, the chassis and coach batteries are two different systems that don’t interface with one other. This is mainly done so that you can’t drain your vehicle’s battery down when camping, for example, leaving you unable to start your engine later on – although there are other reasons why they are kept separate as well. Chassis batteries are designed to deliver a large burst of power for a short time to start the engine, but coach batteries are designed to deliver less power over a much longer time. These are called deep cycle batteries. Fortunately, motorhomes are equipped with a charge solenoid. This solenoid bridges the two battery systems and is activated by the ignition key switch, allowing the engine’s alternator to charge both battery systems when driving.

Batteries operate by way of a chemical reaction. The electrolyte inside the battery, which is basically sulfuric acid, reacts with the lead plates inside the battery to produce power by transferring electrons from the electrolyte to the battery plates. In the process of giving up these electrons, the electrolyte undergoes a chemical process that transfers sulfur to the battery plates and turns the electrolyte into water. When you recharge the battery, the sulfur recombines with the electrolyte, changing it from its water state back to acid again.

How long do RV batteries last?

Typical automotive batteries are rated at 3-years, 5-years or more. That’s based on average use, but it’s not particularly indicative of how long batteries really last. This is especially true in an RV application where usage varies considerably more than that of your daily driver. Batteries are actually rated in charge cycles. You can fully discharge a battery and then recharge it. That is considered as one full cycle. Most batteries are going to have an expected lifetime of between 50 and 80 cycles until they will no longer be capable of performing. But these cycles increase exponentially if you don’t discharge them all the way. If you only discharge the battery one-tenth, you won’t get 10 times the life but it will be more like hundreds – so the secret to getting the most out of your battery is to not allow it to discharge any further than necessary before recharging the battery.

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The voltage versus state of charge graph

For this reason, it’s best practice to never discharge a battery below 40% of its charge level. If you exceed that, the voltage will be much lower and won’t provide adequate power to run your devices. Plus, you will put undue stress on the battery, thereby shortening its life. To determine exactly what the charge status of your battery is, refer to the voltage drop chart above. These voltages are what you will read when the batteries are connected in your motorhome but are not currently being charged. A battery being charged will show a higher voltage reading.

If you find that you are constantly drawing your battery voltage down into the danger zone, you may have an undersized battery bank. Battery banks are just like fuel tanks. If you want to drive farther, you need a bigger fuel tank. Most motorhomes will have multiple batteries and coaches with more electrical needs generally have room for, or are built with, more batteries. Increasing your battery bank size or improving it with higher capacity batteries may give you the extra runtime you need for your coach.

12- versus 6-volt batteries

While coach systems are 12 volt, many motorhomes utilize 6 volt batteries. These batteries are the common 6 volt deep cycle batteries used in golf carts. They generally have a heavier plate construction, are widely available, are more robust and capable of greater output than 12 volt deep cycle batteries. These battery banks need to be wired so that they deliver a 12 volt output.

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Example of parallel and series-parallel battery bank wiring.

When two batteries are connected in parallel, the amperage doubles while the voltage remains the same. When two batteries are connected in series, the voltage doubles but the amperage remains the same. For a typical bank of four 6 volt deep cycle batteries, two 6 volt batteries will be connected in series to make a pair that outputs 12 volts. The other two batteries are also connected as a pair. Then these two pairs are connected in parallel to double the amperage. In effect, each pair is treated as one large 12 volt battery. This series-parallel arrangement allows for large 12 volt battery banks that are made up of 6 volt deep cycle batteries and can have 6, 8 or even more batteries.

RV battery damage

Flooded batteries do require maintenance. When in use, the electrolyte begins to turn into water while the sulfur attaches to the battery plates. When the batteries are recharged, the sulfate on the plates recombines with the electrolyte but if the charge continues once the battery is fully charged, outgassing will occur as the electrolyte boils. This produces explosive hydrogen gas and acidic vapors that will exit via the vent caps on the batteries. These acidic gasses can corrode the battery terminal connections as well as hold-down bolts or anything else in the battery compartment. For these reasons, it’s important that flooded batteries always be placed in a vented compartment to prevent the buildup of explosive hydrogen gasses and that no electrical components that could create a spark are in the immediate vicinity.

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Flooded batteries should be inspected regularly to ensure the water level is up to the ring

When outgassing occurs, the electrolyte level will decrease. At this point it will be necessary to add some water to the battery to top off the electrolyte level. Be sure to use distilled water or else you may be reducing the ability of the battery to conduct electricity as the minerals in the water attach themselves to the battery plates. If the electrolyte level drops beneath the top of the battery plates, your battery’s life will be reduced. Do not add additional electrolyte to the battery. Only add distilled water.

Outgassing occurs whenever the battery receives more voltage than it needs. Battery charging needs are typically handled by converters or inverter/chargers that utilize a 3-stage battery charging system. The initial charge mode is known as the Bulk Charge mode and restores the most power into the battery by producing constant current until it reaches a preset voltage. Once the preset voltage is reached, the charger goes into Absorption Mode and the voltage is held while the current flow gradually tapers. Finally, the charger kicks into Float Mode in order to maintain the charge level without overvolting the battery. If your battery charger is properly calibrated, the odds are good that you will need to add very little, if any, water during normal use. If you find that you are constantly adding water, be sure to have your charger tested by NIRVC’s service department to ensure it is not supplying excessive voltage in the float mode and damaging your batteries. 

One other option is to upgrade to AGM batteries. AGM stands for “Absorbed Glass Mat.” A typical flooded battery consists of lead battery plates submerged in an electrolyte solution. They outgas hydrogen and corrosive gasses when charged, so you need to check the water level regularly and will have to deal with keeping the battery terminal connections clean from corrosion salts. An AGM battery places its electrolyte in fiberglass mats that surround the battery plates. There is no liquid electrolyte in the battery and the battery chambers are not truly vented, although they are valve-regulated to allow for thermal expansion. Because of this, there is no negligible outgassing to be concerned with. You’ll never have to check or add water and corroded battery terminals caused by the acidic outgas vapors are a thing of the past. AGM batteries also have less internal resistance, so they recharge faster than flooded batteries. You can also run an AGM battery longer because the voltage falloff curve is flatter than on a flooded battery. The end result is that you can get more runtime hours out of an AGM battery than an equally rated flooded battery because you can go a bit longer before you reach that 11.8 volt level. Suppliers such as Concorde Lifeline are the leaders in this field. The only real drawback to AGM batteries is that they do cost more.

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Image of a voltmeter

When flooded batteries just aren’t doing the job any more, it’s time to perform some tests on your system. The first test is the voltmeter test. If your batteries are fully charged, you should be able to see 12.6 volts at each battery. But testing voltage will not tell you if the battery is any good. It will only tell you if it is charged up and has no bearing on the ability of the battery to pass the rated number of amps upon demand. However, your batteries do need to be fully charged when testing, so this is the first step. Once you have the batteries fully charged, disconnect any loads from them and stop the charger. A battery that has just been charged will have a surface voltage of 13.2 volts or more. This is a false voltage so let the batteries rest for a while to allow the surface voltage to dissipate. The voltage should stabilize around 12.6 volts. If you cannot achieve 12.6 volts, then it will be necessary to proceed to the next step and test each battery.

National Indoor RV Centers blog Mark Quasius Battery Care and Maintenance for Class A Class C motorhome-refractometer-08

A refractometer will show you the exact specific gravity of each cell

The next step is to see what each battery cell looks like. When battery electrolyte is fully charged, its specific gravity increases. When it’s discharged, the specific gravity lowers because it’s basically water instead of acid. You can use a hydrometer to test the specific gravity but hydrometers are pretty much old school. Refractometers are much more accurate and do not require temperature compensation. Plus, a refractometer can be used to test antifreeze as well as battery electrolyte so it’s a handy tool for any motorhome owner to have.

Every cell in a battery needs to be up to snuff, or else the battery will not work – very much like a weak or broken link in a tow chain. Remove each battery cap and take a small sample of electrolyte with your hydrometer or refractometer. Refer to the chart below to see the state of that cell. If the battery is perfectly charged, the specific gravity should be around 1.277. The main thing to check for is that all of the cells are fairly even. If you have one dead cell, the battery won’t perform because it’ll be like a tow chain with a broken link. Similarly, if you have two 6 volt batteries in series, neither battery will be able to pass current with that one bad cell in the chain.

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The specific gravity versus state of charge graph

Once you have determined that the batteries are fully charged and that each cell is within tolerance, the next step is to perform a load test. Load tests are done by your service technician with a unit such as a carbon pile tester. A carbon pile tester is a dead load that can be varied by turning a knob. An ammeter and voltmeter are supplied to monitor battery performance. A typical test consists of adjusting the control until the ammeter reads three times the rated amp-hrs of the battery. Hold this for a few seconds and monitor the voltmeter. If the battery voltage drops into the red zone, your battery is no longer capable of performing at its rated capacity.

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A carbon pile tester is used to show the ability of a battery to maintain a current draw and is a true test of a battery’s ability to perform

At this point you may need to replace your batteries, but there is one last trick you can try to recover them. Battery plates become sulfated over time and the sulfur no longer recombines with the electrolyte when recharged. You can try to equalize your batteries to see if you can restore some life back into them, a process that involves applying a higher voltage current to the batteries to boil the electrolyte. Hopefully this cooks off any sulfate that has attached itself to the battery plates. Not every battery system can be equalized and damage can occur to your batteries and electrical system if not done properly, so be sure to check with your service technician to see if this is a viable option for your coach.

Lastly, the recent trend toward lithium-ion batteries has taken battery technology to a whole new level. Lithium-ion batteries cost more initially but when calculated over a long term, they can actually cost less. These batteries will last for 3,000 cycles or 10-15 years, which really does reduce the cost per year. Lithium-ion batteries also are able to draw 100% of the rated amp-hrs, while flooded and AGM lead-acid batteries shouldn’t go below 50%. This means lithium-ion batteries only need to be rated at one-half the amp-hrs of a lead-acid battery to deliver the same performance, which will save you space. They are also lighter in weight (which will give you a boost to your cargo carrying capacity) and accept a charge 5-times faster than lead-acid batteries.

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This is a large 270 AH size 8D lithium-ion battery with built-in Battery Management System (BMS).

Lithium-ion batteries do have a few caveats to consider, however. They don’t like to be charged with excessive voltage, which will harm them. Inverter-chargers normally don’t cause any issues but the vehicle’s alternator can put out excessive voltage that can damage these batteries when driving. This can be rectified by using an intelligent Battery Management System (BMS) that only connects the chassis battery bank and alternator to the coach’s lithium-ion battery bank when the voltage is low enough. The BMS acts as a voltage regulator to prevent battery damage from an alternator. In some cases, as with Battle Born Batteries, a BMS is built right in. Lithium-ion batteries should not be allowed to freeze. Battery heaters are a required accessory although some batteries have integral heaters built right inside. These 12 volt heaters will need to be powered when in cold weather.

 Lithium-ion batteries can be an expensive upgrade but if you plan on keeping the coach long enough, it’ll be a good investment. Plus, the ability to use the total capacity of the battery will give you more amp-hrs, allowing greater times between recharge cycles. That, and the reduced weight, are great benefits. But it’s not a simple swap. You’ll need to make sure that you have a battery management system, a charger that is capable of the right settings for lithium-ion batteries, and a way to keep them from freezing. Once again, your NIRVC technician can advise you if your coach is ready for the lithium-ion upgrade.

Regardless of which battery style you use, you should be able to get the maximum lifetime out of your batteries if you take proper care of them. With proper maintenance and use, you’ll enjoy many hours of trouble-free use.


For a better understanding of your RV’s electrical systems, check out this great three-part blog from Mark!

National Indoor RV Centers blogger Mark Quasius profile picture

Mark Quasius is the founder of RVtechMag.com, the past Midwest editor of RV Magazine, writes for numerous RV-related publications and a regular contributor to FMCA’s Family RVing Magazine. Mark and his wife Leann travel in their 2016 Entegra Cornerstone.

The Allure Of The Road – Pt. 1

Allure: The quality of being powerfully and mysteriously attractive or fascinating.

Road: A wide way leading from one place to another.

Hi All – Larry Beckner here. For those who don’t know me, my wife Amy & I have been active part-time RVers since mid-1998 when we bought our first motorhome. I’ll cover our RV ownership history in a future post, but for now let’s talk about the allure of the road!

For me it started early. I was born in San Antonio, Texas. My father had an interesting job with a company called Western Good Roads Service Company, which was involved in the placement of advertising signs on roads and highways. My dad’s primary role was to travel around Texas and parts of Louisiana looking for viable locations to erect signs, followed by preliminary discussions with the relevant landowners.

Before I started elementary school and during summer vacations thereafter, I was able to accompany my dad on some of those trips. San Antonio was a smaller city in those days, so we didn’t have to go very far to be “out in the country.” For me it was big-time adventure – the open road ahead, looking forward to what might be around the next curve, over the next hill, or behind the fence surrounding a farmer’s or rancher’s property.

These trips were also the genesis of my enduring fascination with motor vehicles in all their various forms. My dad had a very cool black Plymouth Coupe, similar to the one in the following photo:

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Like many cars back then, the Plymouth had a three-speed manual transmission with a column mounted shifter. And my dominant memory is that it had a speedometer that went all the way up to one hundred miles per hour. I actually got to see that speedometer touch 100 MPH one time (with my mother driving!), but that’s a story for another day.

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Another major reason for my fascination with motor vehicles was that my dad was friends with a man named Bob Hoffman who ran an auto repair business in downtown San Antonio. After working on customer cars all day in his shop, Bob would build race cars at night and on the weekends. Bob had driven race cars in his younger days, but got banged up sufficiently to shift his focus to building them.

My dad liked racing and often took me to the Saturday night events at our local track, where Bob and his driver competed. I was hooked and have been a racing fan (and occasional competitor) ever since. So for me, the allure of the road includes not just back roads and highways but race tracks and drag strips as well. Here’s a photo from 2007, taken at the legendary Auto Club Raceway in Pomona, California when I was enrolled in Frank Hawley’s two-day drag racing class to obtain a National Hot Rod Association competition license. (Yes, I realize my hair was SLIGHTLY darker at that time, but it was 15 years ago so cut me some slack…)

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My first car was a 1955 Chevy, similar to the one in the following photo, except the only white on mine was the roof. I bought it from a guy who had swapped the original 265 cubic inch engine for a 327 cubic inch Corvette engine. Paid him $600 for the car, put $2,000 or so into it over the following year, then sold it back to the same guy for $650 when I got a non-optional invitation from the government to become part of the U.S. Army. Yes, it was a very good lesson in how to NOT make money spiffing up cars.

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Another good lesson I learned with that car was to plan a long trip before making one. After receiving my draft notice, I decided to make a trip from southern California to San Antonio, Texas to visit my mother – you know, just in case being in the Army cut my life a bit shorter than I had in mind. Left southern California early one morning and made it to El Paso. Figured I was close to San Antonio so I might as well stop, enjoy a nice meal, and get a good night’s sleep.

Slept in a bit the next morning, had a breakfast fit for a king, filled the car up with gas and hit the road. Not far out of El Paso I saw a sign saying, “San Antonio – 565 Miles.” My reaction was along the lines of “No way that can be right!” About 30 miles later I saw another sign saying “San Antonio – 535 Miles.” Did some mental math on how long that was going to take at 65 MPH and promptly applied more pressure to the gas pedal. Yep, Texas is a BIG state!

After completing Basic Training at the not-especially blissful Fort Bliss in El Paso, Texas the Army assigned me to a data center in Atlanta, Georgia. Apparently some aptitude tests the Army administered during Basic Training indicated I was suited for computer programming. When I reported for duty at Fort McPherson in Atlanta the officer in charge of the data center looked at my paperwork and said, “I don’t know why they sent you here – we don’t need any more programmers.” My response was, “Well, that’s good because I don’t know anything about programming.” He took mercy on me and said he’d put me to work doing something or another.

I ended up sharing an apartment with two fellow soldiers, one of whom had a sixty-something Dodge similar to the one in the following photo, though considerably less pristine:

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It was big, it was ugly, and it gulped gas, but we had our share of fun exploring the highways and byways of Georgia and Tennessee in that car. The southeast is very different from Texas and California and I found it fascinating, especially the backroads.

In May 1967, we took the Dodge to Indiana (the hometown of my roommate Terry) to attend the Indianapolis 500. Got to see all of 18 laps before it started raining. The race was rescheduled for the next day, but we were on short-term passes and had to get back to Atlanta for duty. Seems like we convinced ourselves it was fun anyway.

Thanks, that’s probably enough for one post. Stay tuned for more “Allure of the Road” stories in our next installment!

Gas vs. Diesel RVs

Gas vs. Diesel RVs: Is One Better?

In discussing Class A, Class B and Class C RVs, one question has dominated the conversation: Which fuel type is better – gas or diesel? In short, there is no right answer. However, there are differences between the two. It’s mostly a matter of what the RVer needs and how the recreational vehicle will be used that makes one preferable over the other. 

A good method of determining your RV goals is to define and differentiate the RV classes. By having a solid grasp on the size, purpose and capabilities of each, you’ll better understand what engine-type is best suited for your RVing style.

Class A RVs

Class A RVs are​​ the largest of the classes, commonly ranging between 25 and 50 feet in length. They sit on bus or truck chassis, making them capable of supporting thousands of pounds but limiting their overall maneuverability.

National Indoor RV Centers Class A gas RV Holiday Rambler Eclipse motorhome
National Indoor RV Centers class A diesel American Coach American Dream motorhome

Class A RVs are perfect for the full-time RVer who wants to spend most of their time on the road without sacrificing the luxuries of home. They often have slideouts – areas that extend the interior when parked – which make these motorhomes actual homes away from home. They feature premium amenities such as hardwood flooring, full kitchens, enclosed bathroom(s) with showers, dedicated bedrooms, multiple TVs and, most importantly, TONS of storage space. Small recreational vehicles, off-road toys, and even commuter vehicles can be safely towed behind a coach of this size. 

Because of their stature, however, one may be limited in where they can travel. Boondocking – parking and living off-grid with no hookups to water or electricity – might be narrowed by where you’re able to take your RV since off-roading in a big-rig isn’t necessarily advisable. U.S. state and national parks and even some RV parks maintain size restrictions, so it’s best to know ahead of time the types of destinations in your RVing goals.

Gas vs. Diesel – Class A RVs

Here’s what you need to know about the differences between gas and diesel engines. Though the following list was developed specificaslly for Class A RVs, most of these attributes pertain to Class B and Class C RVs as well.

Anything marked with an asterisk (*) pertains only to Class A RVs. 

    1. Price
      There’s no way around it – diesel rigs are more expensive. Sometimes, a lot more. However, these initial costs are often made up for in other ways…
    2. Maintenance
      When it comes to looking at diesel vs gas RV maintenance, diesel rigs typically require less service and maintenance than gas-powered RVs. However, they’re more costly when they do require work. And because gas engines are more familiar to a DIY mechanic, a gas engine is easier to service yourself. Diesel pushers will almost always require professional RV service.
    3. Engine Longevity
      Gas-powered engines not only require more service, but their lifespan is significantly shorter than diesel engines. This is due, in part, to gas engines running at higher RPMs which causes more overall strain to the engine. Looking at diesel vs gas rv mileage, a gas engine might last 150k-200k miles, whereas a diesel engine can be expected to thrive well beyond 400k miles, sometimes surpassing one million miles!
    4. Fuel Efficiency
      Standard fuel efficiency for gas-powered RVs is roughly 6-10 mpg, while the typical diesel range falls between 7-12 mpg. So while diesel might seem to have a slight advantage here, fuel price must be considered. Diesel fuel is usually more expensive than gasoline.
    5. DEF*
      Since 2010, diesel engines in Class A motorhomes  have been required to use a Diesel Exhaust Fluid, or DEF. This fluid helps to break down and purify engine emissions by converting them into water and nitrogen. While good for the environment, it’s an added cost and consideration for diesel drivers.
    6. Driving Experience *
      Because the engine in a Class A diesel pusher is at the rear of the chassis (hence the term), the ride inside a diesel RV is quieter and typically smoother than that of a gas-powered Class A coach.
    7. Torque & Towing Capacity
      While gas-powered RVs offer greater horsepower, allowing them to accelerate more quickly and maintain speed, diesel-powered RVs offer more torque. The increased torque (at lower RPMs) makes hill climbing and mountain driving easier. This added power also boosts towing ability, with diesel pushers commonly offering 2-3 times the towing capacity of a gas coach.
    8. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)
      If you plan on towing, you’d better know your RV’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The GVWR is the maximum total weight that a coach can handle. This includes the weight of the rig, its fluids and components, passengers and added cargo, plus the tongue-weight of any towed vehicle. Once again, because of the power of a diesel engine, diesel coaches offer a greater GVWR. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of a Class A gas coach lies between about 16,000 – 22,000 pounds, while a Class A diesel coach ranges from around 25,000 to well over 40,000 pounds!
    9. Brakes *
      Class A gas motorhomes use disc brakes, similar to those found on a typical automobile. As previously mentioned, this system is easier to service and maintain, especially for the DIY mechanic. Diesel pushers, on the other hand, employ air brakes which utilize compressed air from an air compressor. Air brakes have the ability to slow or stop extreme weight more quickly than standard hydraulic disc brakes.

      For more on air brakes, review this incredibly helpful blog.
    10. Resale Value
      Class A diesel motorhomes generally have higher resale value than their gas-powered counterparts. Simply put, diesel engines last longer and therefore offer more value for longer periods of time. 

    Class B RVs

    Opposite the sprawling Class A RVs are the nimble Class B RVs. Also known as “Camper Vans” or “Adventure Vans”, these highly maneuverable and versatile RVs are most often built on van chassis. Given their significantly smaller size, features and amenities are reduced, though not completely removed.

    Class B RVs creatively offer space for both cargo and passengers. They usually sleep 2-4 people and can contain kitchenettes, a wet-bath (shower and toilet in one area) and no shortage of gadgets and gizmos. Unlike other RV classes, B vans can be used for everyday driving, offering a huge advantage. However, the real fun begins with an upgrade into an Adventure Van. These rigs are upfitted with improved suspension, increased fuel capacity, winches and other upgrades to maximize off-road performance and boondocking capabilities. Perfect for adventurous RVers, Class B RVs offer a simple set-up/tear-down and are capable of reaching the deepest campsites and furthest destinations. 

    National Indoor RV Centers Class B gas van Entegra ethos
    National Indoor RV Centers Class B diesel van Winnebago Revel

    Gas vs. Diesel – Class B RVs

    Most differences between gas and diesel engines from Class A motorhomes likewise hold true for Class B RVs as well. Diesel engines offer more overall power, last longer, typically require less service and offer higher resale value. These attributes make Class B diesels a great choice for those who intend to haul heavy loads, tow additional weight, or do lots of mountain driving. 

    Class B gas RVs, on the other hand, come in a larger variety and are easier to find. They are cheaper to purchase and repair (though repairs may be more frequent) and can handle much of the same difficult terrain – especially if the vehicle has been upfitted for adventure.

    Class C RVs

    Class C RVs offer a mix of attributes from both Class A and Class B RVs. They’re typically between 21-40 feet long, making them roomier than a Class B and more maneuverable than a Class A. 

    Given their spaciousness and multi-passenger amenities, Class C RVs are a great option for traveling families or groups of friends. They offer plenty of lounge areas and public space for all to enjoy, yet enough privacy so as to not be constantly interfering with one another. Like Class A coaches, Class C RVs often have slide-outs to further extend living areas and can get as glamorous in its amenities as one is willing to pay for it. 

    Although they can get quite large in size, their typically smaller stature offers more flexibility in reachable destinations. This opens up the door to off-grid camping and boondocking, offering even longer excursions than Class Bs due to larger holding tanks and more powerful generators. 

    National Indoor RV Centers Class C gas motorhome Winnebago Ekko
    National Indoor RV Centers Class C diesel motorhome Winnebago View

    Gas vs. Diesel – Class C RVs

    Most Class C RVs are powered by gas engines, although there are exceptions. The real difference comes when diving into the world of the “Super C” or “C+” class. Super C RVs are built on a larger chassis than standard C Class RVs – usually that of a truck. They combine qualities of both Class A and Class C motorhomes, offering a wide wheelbase, ample interior space, significant overall storage space and high towing capacity. This added size yields added weight which – you guessed it – requires more power! That’s where a diesel engine comes into play. Most Super C RVs feature a front-mounted diesel engine. 

    There is no right or wrong answer to the question of “gas or diesel?” It really is a matter of preference and intended use. 

    Want to talk to an expert to learn even more about gas and diesel engines? Contact one of our RV Lifestyle Specialists today!

    What’s in Entegra’s Luxury Line?

    Entegra RV: 2023 Entegra Motorhomes

    There’s a lot to love about Entegra RVs. Since Jayco acquired it in 2008, the brand has delivered top-line diesel models. Entegra RVs are some of the most luxurious and spacious Class A rides available–which is an incredibly competitive market to stand out in!

    The latest generation of Entegra vehicles continues this tradition by offering spacious rides and plenty of attractive features. While there aren’t any massive changes from last year’s model line, most of Entegra’s RVs come with brand-new decor options that offer drivers an attractive way to rethink their driving experience. 


    Let’s take a look!


    The Entegra Cornerstone

    Good news: the RV model that’s cultivated a reputation for being powerful and beautiful is, once again, powerful and beautiful. The newest entry in the Cornerstone family has the same luxurious design and open floor plan as its relatives while also featuring several all-new decor options and a greatly appreciated increase in legroom for the driver. 

    New features such as adaptive cruise control, collision mitigation and blind-spot monitoring are all designed to bring focus solely on your destination from behind the industry’s largest windshield (120″).

    Watch Angie’s tour of the 2023 Entegra Cornerstone. 

    The Entegra Anthem

    For a brand that continually one-ups itself, Entegra pulled out all the stops for the 2023 Anthem. With premium upgrades to furniture, power window awnings and dual roof-mounted two-stage patio awnings, this already top of the line coach now feels homier than ever. 

    With 5 floor plans, 6 exterior designs and a number of optional upgrades, there’s something for everyone and no limit to your adventures.


    The Entegra Aspire

    This vehicle enjoys the same upgrade to leather upholstered furniture as its siblings, although that’s far from the only reason to be excited about this quiet, comfortable RV. One of the new features that has RVers most excited is the Aspire’s new E-Z Street column drive. This uses an electrically powered steering system to combat driver fatigue and improve handling.

    You’ll be able to tell the difference from the moment that you first feel your new Aspire effortlessly cutting through harsh highway winds. 


    The Entegra Reatta 

    Since the very first Entegra Reatta drove off the assembly line, it’s been an RVer favorite for a reason: it’s one of the most comfortable and spacious class A RVs available on the market. Period. Expect plenty of that spacious splendor in the newest model line, which features all-new standard tech to deliver an intuitive, responsive and connected multimedia experience. 

    Basically, you’ll never want to watch a movie in a theater again after watching it on the Reatta’s default Samsung’s 4K UHD Smart TV. 


    The Entegra Reatta XL

    Superior quality, impressive functionality and exquisite detail make the Reatta XL an enticing choice for anyone. The 2023 model is all eclectic with no LP-requirements and comes with some of the best warranties in the industry. Combine that with integrated 360º camera on 12.3″ digital dash and tire pressure monitoring system and you’ve got a coach that’s hard to beat.

    Did we mention the space? The XL is in its name for a reason. 

    Browse all our inventory of all Entegra RV models